Ras el hanout means "head of the shop" in Arabic: the best blend a spice merchant can put together. There is no fixed recipe, but most versions combine cumin, coriander, cinnamon, ginger, turmeric, black pepper, allspice, cardamom and a little clove and nutmeg, often with dried rose petals or lavender. The result is warm and fragrant rather than hot, with a sweet, perfumed finish that suits slow-cooked lamb and chicken tagines, couscous, roasted vegetables, meatballs and grilled fish.

How to buy

You will find small jars in the spice aisle of most US and UK supermarkets (McCormick Gourmet, Spice Islands, Sainsbury's and Tesco own-brands) and better versions from spice shops such as Penzeys, Spicewalla, Burlap & Barrel or Steenbergs, or from Middle Eastern grocers. Check the ingredient list: a good blend names 10 or more spices and lists no salt, sugar or fillers in the first positions. Buy small amounts, since ground spices fade within months.

How to store

Keep the jar tightly closed in a dark cupboard away from the stove, where it stays lively for about six months and usable for a year. Never shake it over a steaming pot, because moisture cakes the powder. If the color has dulled and it smells faint when you rub a pinch between your fingers, it will not season anything; use it up in a marinade at double the quantity and buy fresh.

Substitutes

  • Homemade quick blend, 1:1: mix 1 teaspoon each ground cumin, coriander and ginger with 1/2 teaspoon each cinnamon, turmeric and black pepper and 1/4 teaspoon each allspice and cardamom. You lose the rose note but keep the balance.
  • Baharat, 1:1. Also warm and peppery, slightly less sweet and floral; add a pinch of cinnamon and turmeric.
  • Garam masala, 3/4 the quantity plus 1/4 teaspoon turmeric per teaspoon. Close in warmth, but darker and more clove-heavy.
  • Mild curry powder, 1:1, in a pinch. It tastes more Indian and less perfumed, so add a little cinnamon.

How to use

Bloom it: warm 1 to 2 teaspoons in oil with the onions for 30 seconds before adding liquid, which wakes the aroma and removes any raw taste. Use about 1 tablespoon for a tagine serving four, or rub 2 teaspoons mixed with olive oil and salt into 1 kg of lamb or chicken and marinate for at least an hour. It is not spicy, so pair it with harissa or pul biber if you want heat. Do not sprinkle it on raw at the end; the powder tastes chalky unless it has met fat and heat.

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