Doubanjiang (豆瓣酱, also spelled toban djan) is a thick, dark red paste of fermented broad beans, red chilies, wheat flour and salt. The famous version comes from Pixian county outside Chengdu and is aged in open clay jars for one to three years, which turns it from bright red to a brick brown with a deep, almost meaty savoriness. It is more salty and umami than fiery. Mapo tofu, twice-cooked pork, fish-fragrant eggplant, Sichuan hot pot base and dan dan noodles all start with a spoonful of it sizzled in oil.

How to buy

Look for the word Pixian (郫县) on the label. Juan Cheng brand in the red-and-gold bag or jar is the standard in Chengdu kitchens; Sichuan Dandan and Lee Kum Kee Chili Bean Sauce (toban djan) are easier to find at Asian grocers, H Mart, 99 Ranch and Amazon. The Lee Kum Kee jar is smoother and saltier with more soybeans than broad beans, so it works but tastes less deep. Aged versions (labeled 3 years or 红油 red-oil for a looser, oilier paste) are worth the extra dollar. Chunky, dark and thick is good; a bright red, smooth paste is usually young or a Taiwanese-style sweet variant.

How to store

Unopened, it keeps in the pantry for two years. Once opened, refrigerate it; the high salt means it stays good for a year or more, though the top may darken and dry out. Keep a film of oil on the surface and use a clean spoon. It is fermented, so a slightly boozy smell is normal; mold or a rotten smell is not.

Substitutes

  • Gochujang, 1:1 plus 1/2 tsp soy sauce – similar body and fermented depth but sweeter and made from rice; the dish will taste Korean.
  • Miso (red), 1:1 plus 1 tsp chili flakes – gives the salty fermented base, loses the chili oil color.
  • Sambal oelek, 3/4 the amount – hot and red but raw-tasting, missing the fermented savoriness.
  • Black bean garlic sauce, 1:1 plus chili flakes – salty and savory, different bean flavor.

How to use

Always fry it first: heat 2–3 tablespoons of oil over medium, add 1–2 tablespoons of paste and stir for about a minute until the oil turns red and it smells toasty, then add your other ingredients. Skipping this step leaves it raw and gritty. Chop the chunky beans finer for smoother sauces. It is very salty, so hold back on soy sauce and salt until the end and taste. A tablespoon and a half is enough for a block of tofu or a pound of pork.

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